The Jewish-founded Muslim-owned bakery brings together people of all faiths each year to enjoy its century-old delicacies
Team Clarion
KOLKATA — Nahoum Bakery, a beloved institution in the New Market in this capital city of West Bengal, has long symbolised culinary tradition and cultural unity. Founded in 1897 by Nahoum Israel Mordecai, a Jewish immigrant from Baghdad, the bakery has brought together generations of locals and visitors, with its famous treats particularly cherished during the Christmas season.
The bakery’s history is deeply woven into Kolkata’s multicultural past. Mordecai started by selling baked goods and cheese door-to-door on Lindsay Street before opening a small shop in the New Market. Over the years, his children joined the business, adding their expertise and helping it flourish. Today, Nahoum Bakery is managed by Mordecai’s grandson, Isaac Nahoum, who maintains the family’s commitment to quality and tradition.
While Kolkata’s Jewish community has dwindled, Nahoum Bakery continues to operate as a tribute to its legacy. During World War II, Kolkata was home to around 5,000 Baghdadi Jews, who left their mark on the city through synagogues, schools, and businesses. Despite the changing times, the love for Jewish confections persists, with Nahoum’s renowned Christmas treats drawing long queues every year.
For many, Nahoum’s is more than a bakery; it’s a place of personal memories. Kolkata-based poet Rifaat Akhtar fondly recalls visiting the bakery with her father. “Nahoum holds a special place in my heart because my father and I would go there almost every weekend,” she says. “Now, as a mother, I take my children there to enjoy the same wonderful treats.” She adds that Nahoum’s cakes have become an integral part of Kolkata’s festive celebrations.
The bakery’s offerings bring back visitors from across the country. Ella Bhatia, who travels from Delhi, says no visit to Kolkata is complete without a stop at Nahoum’s. “It’s the best bakery I’ve ever been to,” she says. “It’s a must-visit every time we come to Kolkata.”
For Yasmeen, a social worker, Nahoum Bakery is a piece of living heritage. “The aroma from Nahoum fills New Market, which itself is a heritage site,” she notes. “Each item is crafted with love, and the special Christmas fruit cake, which the Archbishop of Canterbury once called ‘the best he’s ever tasted,’ is truly divine.”
Visitors are welcomed with a blend of classic and new treats — from almond tarts and plum cakes to chocolate-chip brownies and rum balls. Nahoum’s famous fruitcakes, a Christmas favourite, draw crowds who wait patiently in line. “Their lemon tarts, walnut cakes, and honey almond cakes are not just delicious — they’re pieces of art,” says Yasmeen, adding that she especially enjoys garlic bread and fudge.
Over the years, Nahoum’s menu has evolved with contributions from family members. Norman Nahoum introduced cookies and biscuits, while Solomon Nahoum added Black Forest pastries. Today, the bakery also serves savoury items like chicken patties and fish rolls, which are equally popular.
As one local enthusiast puts it, “Christmas is simply incomplete without a visit to Nahoum’s.” The bakery’s iconic teakwood counter, worn but enduring, stands as a testament to Nahoum’s commitment to quality and its enduring presence in Kolkata’s cultural fabric. In a city that continues to change, Nahoum Bakery remains a comforting constant, bridging generations and faiths through its timeless delights.
