The ‘jeans jihad’ saga reflects wider challenges facing minority communities; There is an urgent need for fair, transparent governance that respects the rights and dignity of all citizens
NEW DELHI — In the last few months, dozens of jeans manufacturing units operating in West Delhi and Sambhal district of Uttar Pradesh have been shut down abruptly by local authorities. These closures have upended the lives of hundreds of Muslim workers and their families, many of whom have depended on this trade for decades.
The reason cited for the crackdown is a combination of environmental pollution concerns and lack of official licences. However, a deeper look reveals that these actions have been largely driven by the spread of false rumours about so-called ‘jeans jihad’—a conspiracy theory alleging that Muslim-run jeans plants are attempting to change the local demographic and exert undue influence.
This controversial term has no basis and has caused significant damage by encouraging authorities to take harsh measures without proper investigation or community consultation. The fallout has been severe, leading to displacement, economic hardship, and growing mistrust between communities.
The phrase ‘jeans jihad’ first surfaced several years ago amid growing communal tensions in parts of Delhi and Uttar Pradesh. It is said to have originated in social media posts and certain political circles, which claimed without evidence that Muslim-owned jeans washing and tailoring plants were part of a secret campaign to influence demographics and culture in predominantly Hindu neighbourhoods.
These claims, though repeatedly disproved by fact-checkers and experts, gained traction among some sections of the public and officials. The jeans tailoring business in Khayala village in West Delhi — a hub that employed thousands of Muslim artisans mostly from Uttar Pradesh — was suddenly accused of illegal operation and spreading ‘pollution’ that affected the local population.
Similar stories soon emerged in Sambhal, a city in Uttar Pradesh known for its Muslim artisan communities. Here, local administrations began investigations and conducted raids on jeans plants, alleging violation of environmental rules and lack of proper licences or No Objection Certificates (NOCs).
The consequences have been far-reaching. Muslim workers and their families have lost jobs overnight, forcing many to return to their hometowns or live in uncertainty without income.
The jeans manufacturing business, especially in Delhi’s West Khayala area and parts of Uttar Pradesh, has long been a significant source of employment for Muslim artisans.
“We have been stitching and washing jeans here for over twenty years,” explained Mohammad Salim, a tailor who migrated from Kanpur. “For generations, this trade has supported our families. It is honest work, and our skills are well respected in the garment industry.”
Many workers come from small towns and villages where alternative job opportunities are limited. The Delhi plants offered them a chance to earn decent wages and improve their living standards. “I came here with hope for a better future for my children,” said Shaukat Ali, a worker from Unnao. “Now everything is at risk because of the rumours.”
Authorities argue that the raids and plant closures are justified on legal grounds — citing pollution concerns and the absence of proper documentation. The Sambhal City Magistrate Sudhir Singh and District Magistrate Rajendra Pensia have led efforts to enforce compliance, involving police, GST officials, electricity departments, and others.
However, critics say that these measures have disproportionately targeted Muslim-owned plants, while other polluting industries face little scrutiny. Farzana Khan, a human rights activist from Sambhal, pointed out: “If pollution is the real issue, then all factories should be treated equally. But only the Muslim jeans plants are being closed. This selective enforcement is unfair and raises serious questions.”
She added, “It feels like the administration is bowing to pressure created by ‘jeans jihad’ rumours instead of focusing on facts.”
Despite the closures, many artisans have tried to continue their work under difficult conditions. Reports indicate that in some plants sealed by authorities, workers remained inside after locking the gates from within to complete urgent orders.
“We are desperate,” said Abdul Mateen, a jeans washer from Sambhal. “This work is all we know. If these factories are gone, what will happen to our families?”
Shamima Begum, whose husband worked in a jeans plant that was shut down, expressed deep worry: “He earned around ₹8,000 to ₹10,000 a month. Now, we have no income, no savings. How will we feed our children or pay the rent?”
The closures have also sparked fear and anxiety among Muslim families, worried that rumours will lead to more harassment or exclusion. “We are peaceful citizens,” said Mohammad Hussain, a local community leader. “Why should we be punished for a baseless story?”
The contribution of Muslim artisans to India’s textile industry has a long and proud history. From the intricate weaving of Lucknow’s chikankari to the stitching of jeans in modern factories, Muslim workers have played a vital role in shaping India’s garment sector.
In the post-independence period, many Muslim families from Uttar Pradesh and Bihar migrated to urban centres like Delhi seeking work in tailoring, stitching, and garment washing. Over time, they established a skilled workforce known for quality and dedication.
“The jeans industry in West Delhi is an example of community effort and hard work,” explained trade analyst Arif Siddiqui. “Muslim tailors from smaller towns have made this sector grow and sustain thousands of families. It is unjust to dismantle it on flimsy grounds.”
The authorities justify the plant closures mainly on two grounds: environmental pollution caused by chemical washing processes, and lack of official licences.
Pollution caused by garment washing units, if unregulated, can lead to water contamination and health hazards. However, experts say that with modern technology and proper waste management, these risks can be controlled.
Environmental lawyer Anjali Mehta commented, “The solution lies in regulation, not in blanket shutdowns. It is essential to provide support to artisans to upgrade technology and comply with norms, rather than shutting down their businesses, especially when they are major livelihood sources.”
Regarding licensing, several of the jeans plants reportedly lacked No Objection Certificates or were operating on expired permits. While this is a legal issue, the question remains whether due process was followed, including giving sufficient time and assistance to comply.
Many plant operators claim they received little notice or support to regularise their status before being shut down. “We wanted to follow the rules but were never guided properly,” said Imran Khan, a plant owner from Sambhal. “The sudden raids destroyed our work and reputation.”
Community leaders, activists, and some government officials are calling for a balanced approach that recognises both the need to protect the environment and the livelihoods of Muslim artisans.
“We urge the administration to hold open discussions with the affected workers and owners,” said social activist Farzana Khan. “Instead of demonising our community, they should help upgrade the plants to meet environmental standards and legal requirements.”
Long-time Sambhal resident, Abdul Rashid, echoed similar sentiments. “These raids have hurt the poorest sections of our society. We must remember that these artisans contribute to the economy and society. The government should provide support, not punishment.”
At the heart of the ‘jeans jihad’ controversy lies a story of misinformation and prejudice that has real human consequences. The targeting of Muslim jeans workers based on rumours has created an atmosphere of fear and uncertainty.
“It’s painful to see our people suffer because of false stories spread to create division,” said Mohammad Hussain, community leader. “We want peace and opportunity, not suspicion and shutdowns.”
For now, many workers are trying to adapt. Some are considering working from home, others looking for alternative jobs. But the loss of the jeans plants marks a serious setback for many families.
The ‘jeans jihad’ saga reflects wider challenges facing minority communities in India, where rumours and prejudice sometimes influence official action. The urgent need is for fair, transparent governance that respects the rights and dignity of all citizens.
In the case of jeans plants in Delhi and Sambhal, this means recognising the vital role Muslim artisans play, supporting them to meet regulations, and rejecting baseless conspiracy theories that only harm communities and divide society.
