Iconic dishes and hotel owners fear loss of authentic flavours amidst new environmental regulations
Mohammad Alamullah | Clarion India
NEW DELHI — The rich culinary heritage of Lucknow, famed for its Nawabi cuisine, faces an unprecedented challenge as the Lucknow Municipal Corporation (LMC) ordered a ban on the use of coal in the cooking process. The directive, aimed at reducing air pollution, has left many of the city’s renowned hoteliers and street food vendors concerned about the potential impact on the distinct flavours that define Lucknowi cuisine.
For centuries, the city of Nawabs has been synonymous with exquisite dishes that tantalise taste buds across the globe. Whether it’s the aromatic Idris Biryani, the tender Mubeen’s Nihari Kulcha, or the legendary Tunday Kebab, these delicacies are integral to Lucknow’s identity. However, a recent order by the LMC could alter the very essence of these dishes by mandating the use of gas instead of coal in cooking.
Abu Bakr, the owner of the internationally acclaimed Idris Biryani, expressed his deep concerns about the new regulation. “Closing the coal furnace will undoubtedly affect the taste of our biryani, which owes much of its flavour to the coal cooking process,” he stated. “Coal is also essential in baking Kulcha, Sheermal, and Baqarkhani. These are delicacies that cannot easily be made using gas.”
Abu Bakr further added, “Our biryani is not just popular in Lucknow; it has earned fame worldwide. We are committed to following the LMC’s directive, but I fear that the taste of our biryani will change. We urge the government to consider a concession on the use of coal, as preserving this tradition is essential. Ultimately, it is Allah who gives flavour, and we only strive to maintain it.”
Similarly, Abu Bakar, the owner of the century-and-a-half-old Tunday Kebab, echoed these concerns. “Tunday Kebab is not just a business; it represents the pride of our country and the identity of Lucknow,” he remarked. “The municipal order to switch from coal to gas will directly impact the unique taste of our kebabs. Our kebabs are traditionally cooked in brass pots using coal. If we switch to gas, the taste will undeniably change, and this will disappoint our customers. About 90% of our patrons prefer kebabs grilled on coal, as gas simply doesn’t impart the same flavour.”
Abu Bakar emphasised the importance of tradition, stating, “We hope the government will allow us some leniency in using coal so that the authentic taste of our dishes remains intact.”
Yahya Rizwan, the owner of Mubeen Hotel, also expressed his apprehension regarding the new mandate. “Many of our dishes are best cooked with coal, and switching to gas will pose significant challenges,” he said. “The cooking speed is different, and we may face serious difficulties adapting to this change. We are accustomed to using coal, which is why our dishes turn out so delicious. Gas cylinders are more complex to use, and only those with technical expertise can handle them efficiently. This transition may be more problematic than anticipated.”
The sentiments of these hotel owners reflect a broader concern that spans across Lucknow’s food industry. Zaheer Khan, a long-time patron of Tunday Kebab, shared his worries about the future of his favourite dish. “Tunday Kebabs have been a part of my life for nearly 35 years. The thought of losing that familiar flavour due to this new regulation is disheartening. The unique taste that comes from cooking with coal cannot be replicated with gas,” he said.
Municipal Corporation’s Stand
On the other hand, the LMC remains firm in its stance, citing environmental reasons for the change. Municipal Commissioner Inderjit Singh explained the rationale behind the order. “There are currently more than 3,000 coal ovens operating in Lucknow. Our decision follows strict action by the Air Pollution Control Board and the National Green Tribunal (NGT). The move to ban coal ovens in hotels, restaurants, and dhabas is part of a broader effort to reduce air pollution,” he said.
The Municipal Corporation is currently surveying all hotels and restaurants that use coal-fired ovens. A study by The Energy and Resources Institute (TERI) highlighted the contribution of these establishments to air pollution, revealing that the use of coal significantly increases PM 10 and PM 2.5 levels in the air. The study suggests that switching to gas or electric ovens could reduce PM 2.5 emissions by 95%, leading to a substantial improvement in air quality.
“While we understand the concerns of the hoteliers, our priority must be the health and well-being of the city’s residents. The shift from coal to gas or electric cooking methods is a necessary step to ensure cleaner air for everyone,” Municipal Commissioner Singh said.
A Delicate Balance
The tension between preserving Lucknow’s culinary heritage and protecting the environment is palpable. While the LMC’s directive aims to address the pressing issue of air pollution, the impact on the city’s food culture cannot be ignored. As Lucknow’s iconic dishes face the prospect of change, only time will tell if the new cooking methods can live up to the rich flavours that have defined the city’s cuisine for generations.
For now, the hotel owners of Lucknow, along with their loyal patrons, can only hope that a solution is found allowing them to continue their culinary traditions without compromising on taste.
