Livelihood of about 12-13 lakh artisans in peril, women empowerment in rural Uttar Pradesh gets a deep blow
NEW DELHI/BHADOHI – In the narrow lanes of Bhadohi in Uttar Pradesh, the rhythmic sound of wooden looms once echoed like a heartbeat of the town. For decades, the district earned global acclaim as the “Carpet City,” home to skilled artisans producing hand-knotted carpets treasured worldwide.
Today, that heartbeat falters. Stacks of unsold carpets fill warehouses, once-bustling export offices lie silent, and traders stare anxiously at the immovable piles, waiting for government intervention that may or may not come.
The source of the crisis is clear: the United States’ recent tariff hikes on hand-knotted carpets, which rose from 25% to 50%, have disrupted an industry that is almost entirely export-oriented. “Our entire livelihood is tied to exports,” said Imran Ali, a veteran carpet trader from Bhadohi. “Almost everything we make goes abroad. There is barely any domestic market. These tariffs have brought our business to a grinding halt.”
Unlike other textile sectors in India, where the majority of production caters to domestic consumption, Bhadohi’s carpet industry relies almost entirely on international buyers.
Rashid Ahmed, a senior weaver and exporter, explained: “Even if the US were to impose 500% duty, they still cannot produce hand-made carpets themselves. Yet these duties make our goods unaffordable and create hardships for both us and the consumers abroad.”
The stakes are enormous. Across eastern Uttar Pradesh, roughly 12–13 lakh people, including Muslim artisans and part-time farmers, depend on the carpet trade. Women form 25% of this workforce, many of whom are independent weavers working from home. “They manage households, care for children, and weave carpets according to their own schedules. This employment empowers them economically and socially,” said Rashid.
The hand-knotted carpet industry is unique not just economically, but environmentally. Unlike large textile mills that rely on heavy machinery and emit pollution, Bhadohi’s carpets are entirely handcrafted and carbon-neutral. “We actually contribute to the country’s carbon credits,” explained Imran Ali, emphasising the sustainable nature of the craft.
Culturally, these carpets represent centuries of tradition, artistry, and skill. From shearing wool from sheep to spinning, dyeing, weaving, and finishing, the craft involves 28–30 separate stages, each performed by specialised artisans. Disruption in any one stage affects the entire supply chain.
The tariff increase has led to widespread delays and halted production. “Even orders placed four to six months ago are now on hold,” said Suhail Khan, a Bhadohi exporter. “Buyers refuse to take delivery, saying, ‘Sir, we cannot survive if we pay 25% duty; 50% is impossible.’ We face a serious threat of irreversible losses if the situation continues.”
Warehouses overflow with partially completed carpets. Looms sit idle. Raw material purchases have stopped due to uncertainty, and sellers are forced to offer heavy discounts to move stock. “We are already running at a loss. Even if we make a 5% profit, after bank interest, we are left with 2%. Now, with 50% extra cost, we don’t know where to turn,” Imran Ali said.
The impact on women weavers is profound. Amina Begum, a 34-year-old mother and artisan, described her struggle: “I work from home, spinning and weaving carpets after caring for my children. This job allows me to support my family. But now, with orders on hold, I don’t know if I can pay for groceries or my children’s school fees. We feel helpless.”
Women artisans across Bhadohi, Mirzapur, Rampur, and parts of Bihar rely on the carpet trade for income. In many households, their contribution is critical to survival, making the crisis not just an economic problem but a social one as well.
The global carpet market has shifted. Only 15% of floor coverings are hand-made, while 85% are machine-oriented. Countries like Turkey, China, Afghanistan, and Pakistan are now better positioned to take lower-end hand-knotted orders. “Once buyers move to these countries, it will take years to bring them back,” said Rashid Ahmed. “Our 12–13 lakh artisans, most of them rural Muslim families, will be devastated. This is not just a trade; it is a rural livelihood, a community’s way of life.”
Industry leaders have already met with government representatives seek relief. Ministers Suhail Khan and Ahsan Mirza listened to the industry’s plea for a financial package to absorb extra costs and remain competitive. “We need assistance – whether through duty drawbacks or subsidies. Otherwise, our artisans will face starvation. The consequences for rural communities will be severe, including increased poverty and crime,” said Imran Ali.
Hand-knotted carpets are not merely commodities; they are a reflection of India’s rich cultural heritage and centuries-old craftsmanship. Losing Bhadohi’s industry would not only impact millions of Muslim artisans but would also erase an irreplaceable part of India’s artistic legacy.
The Bhadohi carpet industry, deeply intertwined with rural life and women’s empowerment, faces an existential crisis. Immediate government intervention is critical to prevent economic collapse, protect livelihoods, and preserve a heritage that has made India a global leader in hand-knotted carpets.
As one veteran exporter stated poignantly, “We can survive as traders, but where will the artisans go? They cannot survive without work. If the industry collapses, an entire community will face ruin. The government’s support is not just important – it is a matter of survival.”
